Foldable Tank TIGER-I Late production
$ 5.49
GOODesign
GOODesign is a design studio established in Seoul, Korea by a representative who has been active in product design and 3D CG field for 20 years. As a design company that pursues a reasonable and differentiated digital design, it has always presented a new direction through working with clients such as Hyundai Motor, Siemens Korea and beiersdorf. This time, we have put out the life product for 3D printing by utilizing various technique design based on the shape of the Class-A surface. These products are especially the result of deep research on the 3D printing dominant shape that can not be mass-produced using a mold.
This time, I finally challenged the tank. Yes, it is a foldable tank. The first selected model was the German Tiger-1 late model, well known in World War II.
Since almost every detail has been expressed, just looking at it will give you great pleasure.
As with other designs, this design has a lot of moving parts, especially wheels, so it is necessary to adjust the height of the nozzle well so that the gaps do not stick when printing the first layer.
In particular, the most important thing to note when printing this design is to print the Track / caterpillar. Pay attention to the print of the first layer so that the Track / caterpillars do not stick together.
The process of folding this design is as follows.
1. Fold the front part first. Since the living hinge is used, fold it carefully and slowly so as not to break it.
2. Insert the side part with wheels on the front part and the top part. Check and fit each protrusion and hole.
3. Insert the rest of the side part. The body has been completed.
4. Connect the two tracks / caterpillars first.
5. Wind the track / caterpillar around the wheel. There is a change in shape, and the non-simple side is the outside of the track / caterpillar.
6. Fit the start and end parts of the track / caterpillar.
7. Put the cannon on the turret.
8. Glue the small parts on the back.
Print with prusa and How to fold ➪
Print with ender 3 and How to fold ➪
Print with tronxy D01 and How to fold ➪
Print with Ultimaker3 and How to fold ➪
Print with Anet ET5 126% scale and How to fold ➪
Printing review from Greg ➪
Printing review from Patrick Bailey of iqless ➪
1 : 48 scale
When expanded, size = X 134mm, Y 178mm, Z 112mm After folding X 82mm, Y 185mm, Z 62mm
| PRUSA Slicing Settings | Simplify 3D |
|---|---|
| Extuder | Nozzle Diameter : 0.4mm / Retraction Distance : 2.4~2.6mm or Retraction Distance : 1mm, Retraction Vertical Lift : 0.6mm |
| Layer Settings | Layer Height : 0.1mm, 0.2mm / Top Solid : 8 / Bottom Solid : 6 / Outline : 2 |
| First Layer Settings | First Layer Height : 100% / First Layer Width : 95% / First Layer Speed : 80% |
| Infill | Interlor Fill Percentage : 10% / Outline Overlap : 35% |
| Additions | Skirt, Raft : OK / Brim : NO / Support : NO |
| PRUSA Slicing Settings | PrusaSlicer |
| PRUSA MK3 | Layer Height : 0.1mm, 0.2mm / Skirt, Raft : OK / Brim : NO / Support : NO |
| Ender Slicing Settings | Simplify 3D |
| Extuder | Nozzle Diameter : 0.4mm / Retraction Distance : 5mm |
| Layer Settings | Layer Height : 0.1mm, 0.2mm / Top Solid : 8 / Bottom Solid : 6 / Outline : 2 |
| First Layer Settings | First Layer Height : 120% / First Layer Width : 85% / First Layer Speed : 50% |
| Infill | Interlor Fill Percentage : 10% / Outline Overlap : 50% |
| Additions | Skirt, Raft : OK / Brim : NO / Support : NO |
| CR-10S Pro Slicing Settings | Cura |
| Quality | Layer Height : 0.1mm, 0.2mm / Line Width : 0.4mm |
| Shell | Wall Line Count : 2 / Top Solid : 8 / Bottom Solid : 6 |
| Infill | Infill Density : 20% / Patten : Grid |
| Material | Flow : 100% / Retraction Distance : 5.2mm |
| Build Plate Adhesion | Raft / Raft Extra Margin : 3mm / Raft Air Gap : 0.3~0.32mm |
Notice !
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Comments that are irrelevant to the topic may be deleted
did you make it? please write making story !
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im having trouble printing the track wheels, always fails, the printer is an ender 3 max, running klipper and superslicer :/
Hi, nice to meet you. Well, to begin with I want to congratulate you for the work you do. They are really amazing and very clever. Too bad I can't say the same when it comes to printing them... Until now I only printed this Tiger tank and the truth was that it was disastrous for me. First of all, I was never able to fold the front part of the tank like in the video and it ended up breaking in the hinge part. I have broken wheels, the caterpillars almost impossible to print and at the time of placing them I could never place them because they were not placed as easily as in the video. With much anger and sadness I am going to give up on this tank. A shame... it's not easy at all as shown in the video. I hope to print simpler things... greetings.
I bought the Fab365 T34-85 and have printed it with scale 1:1. What scale of Tiger-I late tank should I print so that ratio of sizes of the two models is the same as the real-life ratio? In real-life, the two tanks have similar length (6m68 and 6m31) but in your models, the Tiger-I late seems to be larger than the T34-85. Thanks for your advice.
We checked size with comparison.
It's not very accurate, but I've put some data together and made it as 1:48 scale as possible.
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Awesome model
printed everything only have one problem
the tracks are falling apart
Used the mk3 profile from this site sadly no effect
used different orientations no effect
checked the default extrusion and its .4
Edit:
I fixed it by putting the extrusion multiplier on 1.1
@palko_138502 We are happy that the output was successful.
If there is any problem with the printing, please let us know the problem with the picture at help@fab365.net.
Please also refer to the tips page below.
https://fab365.net/pages/14013138303/parts_not_move
Слишком свободные звенья у гусениц как настроить в Cure
@VIRUS 1) Use Line Width: 0.4mm
2) Use Layer Height: 0.1mm
3) If there is a problem even when applying 1) 2) then use Flow: 120%
Большое спасибо настройки помогли только гусеницы слишком в натяжение были пришлось добавить одно звено чтоб немного посвободнее было.
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@VIRUS Sorry. Fab365 only offers paypal. We will add various payment methods.
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@VIRUS We have received customer inquiries in the last few days that paypal payments are not working. We will contact you by email to protect your personal information.
How you print the turret?, I have a tronxy xy 2 and is dificult to make small cylinder type parts.
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I'm having trouble with the treads. The links connecting them are too weak, they disintegrate when I try to put them on the tank.
My printer is a Prusa i3 mk3.
Hi rogaldorn.
Have you seen fab365's print tips page?
https://fab365.net/print-tips
Or could you please post a picture? If you upload a picture, we can suggest a more accurate solution.
Some parts of the tack are pretty good and require quite a bit of effort to take apart, while others seem to just fall apart from each other. If I had to guess, I would say there could be more material in the interlocking links of the track. Maybe under extrusion? The other parts, like the Hull and Turret print fine.
I did look through the tips and tricks. I believe my bed is as level as I can make it. I've done the nylok mod and my bed variance is fairly low. The bed adhesion is good, nothing is lifting during the print and it takes a little effort to remove the print when done.
I did notice I had 'detect thin walls' checked in my print settings. I'll uncheck it and try printing a single track, and also try 90 degree orientation from the default to see if that helps.
My filament is SUNLU Gray (X002CWQ013), 210C/60C. 0.4mm Nozzle, 0.2mm layer height.
That seemed to fix my problem. I aligned the tracks going in the X-axis on the build plate instead of in the Y. They fit great and thanks for such a great model. Do you have any plans to expand to other tank models? I'd love to see more, like the Panther, Sherman, Wolverine, Churchill, SU-85s, IS-3, KV-2, Etc etc.
We are happy to have your problem resolved.
Put your tank on request and get people's vote.
https://fab365.net/requests
And... the M4 Sherman is coming.