Wall-E Foldable (Print-in-place Articulated)
FREE
You can download 1 free item per Free item - download ticket.
AUTOBOTO
Since Fab365 designed the Foldable Robot, there have been many requests to design the Wall-E in a foldable way. This is because Wall-E is optimized for foldable design. However, the shape optimized for foldable is only the body, and Wall-E's head/eyes, arms, wheels and track are a challenging shape with many factors to consider.
Now that we too have gained a lot of experience, we now have the skills to create, and finally we can design like this.
Please enjoy the foldable design skills that Fab365 has accumulated over the past 3 years with the Foldable Wall-E.
Here are some things to keep in mind when making Foldable Wall-E.
When folding the body, make sure to check the positions of the protrusions and holes before folding.
The parts attached to the upper corner of the Wall-E's body have a small adhesive area, so it is recommended to apply the adhesive carefully before sticking.
The neck must first be pushed up and then rotated before it can move.
The arm moves along the rail. On the lower rail, it moves well when the arm is forward, and on the upper rail, it moves well along the rail when raised up.
To make the track move well, it's a good idea to grease the wheels with sewing machine oil.
If the tracks are well separated, it is helpful to increase the flow rate.
Please check the video for details of the making process.
Printing on Prusa and assembling video ➪
Printing on Ender 3 and assembling video ➪
Largest part in printing, size = X 160mm, Y 184mm, Z 25mm
Notice !
Feel free to talk about your product.
Comments that are irrelevant to the topic may be deleted
did you make it? please write making story !
Write Review
i seem to have problems with the arms, they seem to keep fusing together at the joint. ender 3 pro, pla at 185, bed at 50, everything else prints fine
Set horizontal expansion to -.02 in slicer for arms, it will make them a tiny bit smaller
Go to wall ordering if you're using cura slicer and change it into outside to inside with 1mm layer... Thank me by following or subscribing to my channel both ig and yt @lamka3dworld
Hi to @ll
hello everyone, has someone removed layer 0.3?
Outstanding! Had a lot of fun printing this and assembly was a snap (pun intended!)
Ingenious design. thank you :)
Any chance of getting an stl of just the two leg assemblies? I'm trying to get the wheels to turn, but my printing is going to take a while to reach that level of fine tuning. Hoping to save some time and filament while I tune it.
Hello Fab 365 your skills are getting better and better, really well done.
This is a fantastic model thank you so much for creating it :)
I have a few questions if I may:
- Can this be printed at 0.2mm height? or would you say 0.1mm will work better?
- At what speed and infill would you recommend?
I am using an Ultimaker 3 printer with latest version of CURA 5.0
I appreciate your help very much.
Thank you again for your hard work.
Fulvio
from the UK.
Thx Fab365 super model Wall print RR400K loot of filament (Sunlu PLA black a white ,GST3D PLA+ silver . ceality ender PLA yellow , PM PLA+ yellow nice work print good
Fab365's models are excellent, I am very happy with all I have printed and very thankful for free models such as this.
The large yellow part was a challenge to print. I consider my printer (Prusa MK3S+) well tuned and my plate clean and with good first layer adhesion. Still, pieces got moved, I believe in part due to the curling up of the small parts, something I don't know how to avoid. I am using Prusa Slicer with a new Prusament PLA filament. This was printed with a 0.4 nozzle at 0.15 layer height, 15% gyroid infill.
After 2 failed attempts, I added support for the small rectangular parts as to add a 'fake brim' - adding 0.2 height rectangles, around the smallest parts that got dislodged. This increases their first layer adhesion substantially. I added 15 such squares (easy once you create one, copy paste). Tried print again and... some smaller pieces I missed adding such brims... so 4th attempt, with 19 small brims around the model, it worked without a problem. These brims are easy to remove with a knife and didn't affect negatively assembly.
I would like to share the .3mf file but only if fab365 ok's it.
Here is a picture that shows how bottom layer should look like, shown from the bottom. Note the small squares on the thinnest parts that would normally not be there. Some of the parts I added 2 rectangles (forming a 'cross'). The ones supporting the long, thing L shapes, I am unsure if necessary, but added them for safety (this part never failed for me).
Hi there, I've found that if I put a brim distance of 0.1 the adhesion to the plate still works great but the brim is much easier to remove.
I really like your model is there any possible way to share?
Hola a todos! excelente diseño, felicitaciones!!! tengo un problema en cuanto a la impresión, en el caso de la mano veo que la articulación de la muñeca se mueve, pero en el caso mío se queda unido sin movimientos, yo estoy laminando en CURA, que parámetros debería cambiar? para que quede móvil y no fija, imagino que me pasara lo mismo en la cadena de la grúa de ruedas, todo se quedara fijo. saludos!
Ya lo solucione!!!!
printer: mk3s+
pla yellow prusament
same issue for me small parts curling
faled 6x
tried also 130% size and still same problem
so far i tried
chanze zlive
blow cold air on printer
nylock mod done aswell
any ideas???
Please check Fab365 print-tips.
https://fab365.net/print-tips-list
Or lower your nozzle.
Thanks!
i tried everething its only failed when i print full body. i tried cut the body model and print the small part only and no issues at all. i dont have problem with bed ahesion no warping at all. also using pla prusament. here are pictures of those part printed alone. its just curling on the top :/ so far i failed 9 times. its weird after two years i never had such a big issue to print something
Check my comment post about adding a small brim around the smallest part to help them adhere better, the curling/warping means the small parts gets pushed harder and will separate. This worked for me, give it a try! Printed whole yellow part all together as expected.
I have tried a couple of times to print this but have failed. The main part of the body has several small "dogbones" that hold the parts together. Unfortunately they will not stay stuck to the bed despite several attempts with bed adhesives. The problem is that they have very little surface area and while they are printing, the "ears" of the dogbone start to curl up. The printer nozzle passes over them and knocks the dogbones off the bed. Any suggestions?
Please check Fab365 print-tips.
https://fab365.net/print-tips-list
Or lower your nozzle.
Thanks!
if you have same problems with those long parts that conecting big pieces together i may find different way. in prusa slicer body stl i split into objects and those problematic parts i deleted. lets try to print them without them and glue the big parts together.