Mandalorian - Razor Crest
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GOODesign
GOODesign is a design studio established in Seoul, Korea by a representative who has been active in product design and 3D CG field for 20 years. As a design company that pursues a reasonable and differentiated digital design, it has always presented a new direction through working with clients such as Hyundai Motor, Siemens Korea and beiersdorf. This time, we have put out the life product for 3D printing by utilizing various technique design based on the shape of the Class-A surface. These products are especially the result of deep research on the 3D printing dominant shape that can not be mass-produced using a mold.
At the great request of the makers, I designed the Razor Crest, which appears in the Star Wars TV series The Mandalorian, as a print-in-place for 3D printing.
I tried to reproduce almost all the moving parts.
The air brake of the engine, the hangar at the back, and the door on the side embody the movement.
However, some were expressed in a detachable way. Telescopic gate parts or landing gear on the side are implemented as removable.
The process of printing and creating is very simple, but there are a few caveats.
1. It is recommended that rear doors and windows be printed using brim.
2. Window parts can be confusing, so try to match them before attaching them.
3. It is convenient to put the back door first.
Printing on Ender 3 3D printer video ➪
Printing on Prusa 3D printer video ➪
We are designing a display stand that can store these extra parts separately. Please look forward to this display stand!
There are many production requests from you, but due to circumstances, we cannot produce all of them. However, Fab365 always listens to your opinions and requests, and if circumstances allow, we are trying to respond to your requests.
We hope you enjoy printing this item designed at your request!
1 : 100 scale
Largest part in printing, size = X 96mm, Y 86mm, Z 85mm, After full assembly size= X 208mm, Y 280mm, Z 103mm
Total Build Time : 61h 37m / Plastic Weight : 308g
PRUSA Slicing Settings | Simplify 3D |
---|---|
Extruder | Nozzle Diameter : 0.4mm / Retraction Distance : 2.4mm |
Layer Settings | Layer Height : 0.1mm(High Quality) or 0.2mm(Low Quality) / Top Solid : 8 / Bottom Solid : 6 / Outline : 2 |
First Layer Settings | First Layer Height : 100% / First Layer Width : 100% / First Layer Speed : 80% |
Infill | Interior Fill Percentage : 15% / Outline Overlap : 30% |
Additions | Raft : NO / Brim : NO / Support : NO |
PRUSA Slicing Settings | Prusa Slicer |
PRUSA MK3 | Layer Height : 0.1mm(High Quality) or 0.2mm(Low Quality) / Raft : NO / Brim : NO / Support : NO |
Ender Slicing Settings | Simplify 3D |
Extruder | Nozzle Diameter : 0.4mm / Retraction Distance : 5.4mm |
Layer Settings | Layer Height : 0.1mm(High Quality) or 0.2mm(Low Quality) / Top Solid : 8 / Bottom Solid : 6 / Outline : 2 |
First Layer Settings | First Layer Height : 120% / First Layer Width : 150% / First Layer Speed : 50% |
Infill | Interior Fill Percentage : 15% / Outline Overlap : 30~40% |
Additions | Raft : NO / Brim : NO / Support : NO |
Ender Slicing Settings | Cura |
Quality | Layer Height : 0.1mm(High Quality) or 0.2mm(Low Quality) / Line Width : 0.4mm |
Shell | Wall Line Count : 2 / Top Solid : 8 / Bottom Solid : 6 |
Infill | Infill Density : 20% / Pattern : Grid |
Material | Flow : 100% / Retraction Distance : 5.4mm |
Additions | Raft : NO / Brim : NO / Support : NO |
CR-10S Pro Slicing Settings | Cura |
Quality | Layer Height : 0.1mm(High Quality) or 0.2mm(Low Quality) / Line Width : 0.4mm |
Shell | Wall Line Count : 2 / Top Solid : 8 / Bottom Solid : 6 |
Infill | Infill Density : 20% / Pattern : Grid |
Material | Flow : 100% / Retraction Distance : 5.4mm |
Additions | Raft : NO / Brim : NO / Support : NO |
Notice !
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did you make it? please write making story !
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hello someone help me, i like print this model with the same measures that this image but I don't know what are the measurements in percentages any one help me please , PLEASE any one help me i really apricciate so much
https://percentagecalculator.net/
Nice :)
Tout simplement magnifique !!!
Thank You !
All finished :) Very happy with the results (just a couple of bits that need finishing)
It is looking great so far! Once it is complete please share it on the review page, so more people can see your fantastic work.
Hello,
I have been having issues printing the turrets. I have decreased print temp from 210c to 200c, increased retraction from .8 to 1.8, and decreased print speed from 100 to 60. But I continue to have issues printing the final barrel portion of the turrets. I am printing on a Prusa i3MK3S+. Can you please offer some advice at your earliest convenience. Thanks!
Looks like something very wrong with parts cooling. Make sure you have parts cooling turned on and the fan is actually blowing and not blocked.
FYI: site navigation issue !
When I click on the ">" at the bottom to try to get to the next page of comments it sends me to the beginning page for the Razor Crest.
Probably a broken or misdirected link.
Thank you!
Hi qwerty1234order0965,
We haven't found an error yet but we will keep an eye on it. Thank you for the heads up!
Printing!!!! the next one... Boba Feet's Slave 1. Please!!! :D :D :D
Another galactic masterpiece. This is currently a project in the works for me. Question regarding figurines. If wanted to print for example a Mandalorian on my resin printer how many millimeters high should I scale it to make it match the original size of this model?
I've tried printing the engine twice (PLA and PETG) and I keep getting zits all over the parts. I know it's not my printer because anything else I print turns out fine.
Just curious, is your seam position set to "Aligned" or "Random". It could be that. A random setting could possibly cause that. Anyway, I hope you are able to figure it out.
Please check this link for that phenomenon.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZM1MYbsC5Aw
Hello. I'm having trouble printing the Razor Crest Flap file. I can't print the separate flaps cleanly. I reduced the temperature, cooling to maximum, supports, brim and still the same problem. I print on a Prusa MK3S MMU2S. Please advise me how to have the correct settings. It seems to me that an SLA printer is probably better for this than an FMD. I've had enough trouble with it and wasted enough material.
Or I suggest adding the Razor Crest Flap Closed file with the flaps being closed and part of the main body and not openable.
Thanks for the advice and reply.
My suggestions:
1, Calibrate the printer with hangover tower rather than blind tuning, if it still doesn't work, maybe it's time to upgrade your part fan, material and heat end.
2, Split this part into piece (Prusaslicer, right click on part, split --> to object) and print them one by one, adjust the placement orientation of those flaps like this:
Hello, thank you very much for the advice. I will certainly change the cooling, it has already had enough. But I see the greatest success in the printing of the flaps themselves. I had no idea that was possible in Prusaslicer. Thanks again for the advice.
So dividing the printout into objects really helped. Here is the result. I had no idea Prusaslicer could do that. Once again, thank you very much.